Remodeling the Garden: Mandala update
/The Rapunzels help to turn the soil over in Better Farm's future mandala garden site. |
The Rapunzels help to turn the soil over in Better Farm's future mandala garden site. |
By Jackson Pittman
Composting is a great and easy way to put garbage to a real use. By harnessing scraps and organic waste as fuel for plants we can cut down our what we put out to a landfill, and also accommodate life! Stores offer a wide variety of compost and worm containers, but a simple one can be built without having to buy anything! These DIY methods even prevent rodent attraction and block odors if fed the right kinds of waste.
What you will need:
2 containers (one should be able to fit in the other with room), 1 lid for the larger container, drill, 1 brick and soil or wood chips.
Instructions
Drill half an inch in diameter holes across the bottom and up the sides of the smaller container. Put brick in the bottom of larger container and sit the smaller container on top of it. Fill the space in between the containers with wood chips or soil and place the lid over the larger container.
Wastes to put in
: fruits, vegetables, eggshells, coffee grounds and filters, tea bags, nut shells, shredded newspaper, cardboard, paper, grass clippings, houseplants, hay and straw, leaves, sawdust, wood chips, cotton and wool rags, dryer and vacuum cleaner lint, hair, fur and fireplace ashes
Compost should be ready in 2-5 weeks.
Wastes which will attract pests and produce odors: dairy, eggs and meat products, oils, greases and pet wastes
What you will need:
composting worms, container (not translucent), lid or rag, lots of shredded paper, several fruit or vegetable scraps
Instructions
Composting worms need 6-7 inches of bedding, and a gallon of worms need about a square foot of space, keeping in mind the worms reproduce and will need to expand. At the end of the vermicomposting cycle more bins will be necessary to accomodate the growing worm population.
Once the right size container is chosen, soak the shredded paper, and then dry it by hand until it has the moisture of a run out sponge. There should be enough paper to spread six to seven inches of bedding across the bottom of the container, and once this is done, throw some produce scraps on so the bacteria can begin to propagate before the worms are introduced (worms love bacteria). Add the worms and close the container-- however since the worms need air you can drill holes in a lid, leave the lid slightly ajar or place a wet, dark , wrung out cloth over the bin (this eliminates light (worms hate light) and keeps the bedding moist while keeping out flies or other pests).
Well-kept worms will be reproducing a lot and can live several years!
Wastes to put in: Fruits, vegetables, paper, plant matter and any food scraps without dairy, meat or grease.
Ice and Snow.
Ice within the pore spaces of frozen soils typically reduces infiltration rates, but only soils that were saturated on freezing will completely prevent water from entering. Summer melting of the upper layer of permafrost in cold regions often results in a saturated zone of soil above the frozen ground.
Precipitation that falls as snow is stored until snowmelt, when a large pulse of runoff may be generated. Runoff occurs only after the entire snowpack has reached 0°C (32°F), some melting has occurred, and pore spaces between snow grains can no longer hold all the water supplied.
The rate of snowmelt depends on heat inputs into the snowpack through solar radiation and via water from melting and rainfall moving through the snow. The soil surface underneath the melting snowpack may become saturated, such that runoff flows through the base of the snowpack toward streams. Saturated zones and surface runoff commonly occur on slopes below the melting
snow line
.
Read more:
http://www.waterencyclopedia.com/Re-St/Runoff-Factors-Affecting.html#ixzz2DY8QkgXY
How This Year's Snowfall will Influence Next Year's Gardens and Farms
Many people understand that a water table has something to do with ground water, but they may not understand fully
what a water table entails or the purpose it serves
—and what weather elements cause the water table to fluctuate. In this blog, we'll break down water tables and explain how a nice winter of snow can actually ensure your gardens have plenty of water next year.
The "zone of saturation" is the underground depth at which the ground is totally saturated with water. The upper surface of this zone is called the water table. It is also the level at which groundwater pressure is equal to atmospheric pressure. Much of the water present on Earth is trapped under the ground. Rain, river and stream runoff and snow melt contribute to the water that seeps down into the soil and eventually into deposits of water under the ground. When water deposits are large enough to be used as a water source, they are known as aquifers.
The water table can fluctuate depending on the season and weather conditions. When there is an excess of rain or runoff, the water table may rise considerably. During periods of drought, the water table may diminish.
It's also important to note that a water table is not a flat line of water. The table actually fluctuates depending on the landscape and human modification of subterranean topography. The water table may be shallow in some areas and deep in others. In some cases, people may live in areas with a "high water table." The water may be enough to saturate the ground and contribute to springs where water flows naturally from rock onto the surface of the land. Springs may seep from places where the water table intersects the land surface. Water may also flow out of the ground along fractures. A high water table may contribute to leaks in basements and crawl spaces. That's because hydrostatic pressure, or the pressure of the groundwater pressing up against the home foundation, can cause the water to find weak points and other areas of entry. In these instances, a method of keeping the water from entering the home may need to be investigated.
Some people and industries tap the water table and aquifers for use. Underground water can provide irrigation for crops or be used to bring water to a home instead of relying on public water supplies. When a well is sunk to pump ground water, it must be put deep enough to reach the zone of saturation.
In areas with sufficient precipitation, water infiltrates through pore spaces in the soil, passing through the unsaturated zone. At increasing depths water fills in more of the pore spaces in the soils, until the zone of saturation is reached. In permeable or porous materials, such as sands and well fractured bedrock, the water table forms a relatively horizontal plane. Below the water table, in the
, permeable units that yield groundwater are called
. The ability of the
to store
is dependent on the primary and secondary
and
of the rock or soil. In less permeable soils, such as tight bedrock formations and historic lakebed deposits, the water table may be more difficult to define.
The water table should not be confused with the water level in a deeper well. If a deeper
has a lower permeable unit that confines the upward flow, then the water level in a well screened in this aquifer may rise to a level that is greater or less than the elevation of the actual water table. The elevation of the water in this deeper well is dependent upon the pressure in the deeper aquifer and is referred to as the
, not the water table.
Snowfall
Generally speaking,
snow will raise the water table for longer than rain will
. Once the ground is saturated, rain will just continue to run off the surface, and no longer impact the local water table. However if in that same watershed, the precipitation falls as snow and it does not melt immediately then it will have a delayed impact on the water table, raising the water table later in the spring when the snow melts. In many seasonally arid mountainous places, the water table is dependent on snow melt through the dry season. So if that snow falls as rain, if temperatures rise, than those regions will not have the more continued water source that both the human and ecological communities depend on.
How does snow affect water supplies?
In the western United States, mountain snow pack contributes up to 75 percent of all year-round surface water supplies.
Snow that falls this winter will melt out of the ground in the spring, providing young plants with plenty of hydration.
What is the water content of snow?
The commonly used ten-to-one ratio of snowfall to water content is a myth for much of the United States. This ratio varies from as low as 100-to-one to as high as about three-to-one depending on the meteorological conditions associated with the snowfall.
Average snowfall amount
Nationwide, the average snowfall amount per day when snow falls is about two inches, but in some mountain areas of the West, an average of seven inches per snow day is observed.
Ice within the pore spaces of frozen soils typically reduces infiltration rates, but only soils that were saturated on freezing will completely prevent water from entering. Summer melting of the upper layer of
permafrost
in cold regions often results in a saturated zone of soil above the frozen ground.
Precipitation that falls as snow is stored until snowmelt, when a large pulse of runoff may be generated. Runoff occurs only after the entire
snowpack
has reached 0°C (32°F), some melting has occurred, and pore spaces between snow grains can no longer hold all the water supplied.
The rate of snowmelt depends on heat inputs into the snowpack through solar radiation and via water from melting and rainfall moving through the snow. The soil surface underneath the melting snowpack may become saturated, such that runoff flows through the base of the snowpack toward streams. Saturated zones and surface runoff commonly occur on slopes below the melting
snow line
.
Read more:
http://www.waterencyclopedia.com/Re-St/Runoff-Factors-Affecting.html#ixzz2DY8QkgXY
How does snow affect water supplies?
In the western United States, mountain snow pack contributes up to 75 percent of all year-round surface water supplies.
What is the water content of snow?
The commonly used ten-to-one ratio of snowfall to water content is a myth for much of the United States. This ratio varies from as low as 100-to-one to as high as about three-to-one depending on the meteorological conditions associated with the snowfall.
Average snowfall amount.
Nationwide, the average snowfall amount per day when snow falls is about two inches, but in some mountain areas of the West, an average of seven inches per snow day is observed.
Ice within the pore spaces of frozen soils typically reduces infiltration rates, but only soils that were saturated on freezing will completely prevent water from entering. Summer melting of the upper layer of
permafrost
in cold regions often results in a saturated zone of soil above the frozen ground.
Precipitation that falls as snow is stored until snowmelt, when a large pulse of runoff may be generated. Runoff occurs only after the entire
snowpack
has reached 0°C (32°F), some melting has occurred, and pore spaces between snow grains can no longer hold all the water supplied.
The rate of snowmelt depends on heat inputs into the snowpack through solar radiation and via water from melting and rainfall moving through the snow. The soil surface underneath the melting snowpack may become saturated, such that runoff flows through the base of the snowpack toward streams. Saturated zones and surface runoff commonly occur on slopes below the melting
snow line
.
Read more:
http://www.waterencyclopedia.com/Re-St/Runoff-Factors-Affecting.html#ixzz2DY8QkgXY
Ice within the pore spaces of frozen soils typically reduces infiltration rates, but only soils that were saturated on freezing will completely prevent water from entering. Summer melting of the upper layer of
permafrost
in cold regions often results in a saturated zone of soil above the frozen ground.
Precipitation that falls as snow is stored until snowmelt, when a large pulse of runoff may be generated. Runoff occurs only after the entire
snowpack
has reached 0°C (32°F), some melting has occurred, and pore spaces between snow grains can no longer hold all the water supplied.
The rate of snowmelt depends on heat inputs into the snowpack through solar radiation and via water from melting and rainfall moving through the snow. The soil surface underneath the melting snowpack may become saturated, such that runoff flows through the base of the snowpack toward streams. Saturated zones and surface runoff commonly occur on slopes below the melting
snow line
.
Read more:
http://www.waterencyclopedia.com/Re-St/Runoff-Factors-Affecting.html#ixzz2DY8QkgXY
Winter Plants
Winter is the
hardest season for a plant's survival
; plants need water to live and in Winter the soil is often frozen with ice and snow, trapping any water within it. The plant can not replace any water losses and as a result, the plant will die. Therefore, plants and trees have adapted various ways in which to survive the Winter.
Which Plants Survive the Winter?
Annual plants do not the survive the Winter and flower for only one growing season; perennial plants do survive the Winter but 'hibernate' under ground. The growth above ground dies at the end of the growing season but the roots of the plant are protected by snow, which acts as insulation; new growth follows in the Spring.
How Snow Helps Winter Plant Survival
Snow is vital to the Winter survival of plants and trees as snow acts as an insulator and protects the plant from harsh, Winter conditions. Snow flakes have a unique structure; snow flakes have small intervening spaces within their structure which are filled with air. This means there is low heat conductivity; as a result, the daily temperature penetration into the snow is minimal and plants are protected from frost and freezing conditions. Once the snow melts, the moisture is also good for the plants.
Actually the old farmers prefer a snowy winter than a smooth winter season.
According to
the scientists, the connection between the cold and the earth is a
natural
one.
During the biggest snow storms, the vegetables in your
garden
will grow even healthier. Of course there are
advantages and disadvantages
, when it comes to
cold winters and veggie
gardens
.
The biggest amounts of snow aren’t that dangerous. They actually protect the vegetables against frost and ice, so the snow is providing a cover for your garden. For instance, snow is very useful for the flavor of many vegetables like Brussels sprouts and parsnips.
It improves their sweetness and makes them tastier. The snow has another major
advantage
, when it comes to healthy vegetables. If there is lot of snow, it kills the pest populations. Pest communities such as aphids can’t survive in low temperatures, so they will not damage your plants during a cold winter. It is a proven fact that the coldest winters are more useful for a veggie garden than a smooth winter.
Snow provides moisture as well as protection from cold and wind. Snow is an excellent insulator against low temperatures and excessive winds. The extent of protection depends on the depth of snow. Generally, the temperature below the snow increases by about 2 degrees F for each inch of accumulation. In addition, the soil gives off some heat so that the temperature at the soil surface can be much warmer than the air temperature. One study found that the soil surface temperature was 28 degrees F with a 9-inch snow depth and an air temperature of -14 F!
Snow brings welcome moisture to many landscape plants, which will in turn help prevent desiccation injury. Even dormant plants continue to lose moisture from twigs (as water vapor) in the process known as transpiration. Evergreen plants, which keep their leaves through the winter, are at even greater risk of injury.
The Effect of Changing Snowfalls on Plants
In some areas of the world snowfall is reducing; in other areas of the world snowfall is occurring earlier in the season than it has traditionally occurred. A
Global Outlook for Snow and Ice stated that in the Northern Hemisphere snowfall had reduced by seven to ten per cent over the last 40 years for the months of March and April. Throughout the Northern Hemisphere, the period of the year when there is no snow cover has also lengthened.
If snowfalls occur early in the Winter season, or even at the end of Fall, some plants may traditionally be unprepared for the sudden climate change which may result in the plant dying; however, should snowfall be later or lighter in the traditional Winter months, plants may struggle to survive too. If high alpine and mountainous areas experience less snow, the traditional plant species found in these areas may eventually alter or die out completely.
When moisture from the sky falls short, it's our job to make up the difference with winter watering. When we go without a good soaking snow every month or so, we need to drag out our garden hoses and make up for the difference. Remember that on average, in our soil, 85% of a tree's roots are in the top 12- to 18-inches of soil. Trees, shrubs, perennials and even lawns don't need
frequent
winter watering, they need occasional
deep
winter watering. There's a big difference.
Newly-planted trees, shrubs and perennials need enough moisture to soak down to the bottom of their root ball. More mature plants will have larger root systems, and should be watered near their "drip line," the outer-most point of their branches.
Sissy keeping cozy in winter months. Photo/Jennifer Elizabeth Crone |
Survivor Outreach Services of Fort Drum
and
Hospice of Jefferson County present:
A Time of Holiday Remembrance
For
children
ages 6 to 12
who have experienced the loss of a loved one
Join us for a time of
Holiday crafts, lunch, and cookie decorating
Held at Hospice Facility 1398 Gotham St., Watertown
December 8, 2012
11:00 -1:30
bett
erArts, Inc., invites f
amilie
s
to join in the making of a collage in honor of their loved one by coming from 12:45-1:30.
Please bring pictures to use in this activity
.
To RSVP or for more information
contact Joyce Combs 788-7323
by Dec. 3
Funding for this betterArts project was made possible by
.
Ready for the Thanksgiving feast. |
Backyard eggs used in bread recipes. |
Dinner party cast of characters |
Up here in Redwood we're receiving frost every night and expecting snow anytime. During these times when the garden doesn't produce as much we like, we have come up with simple instructions for creating a homemade hydroponic system.
To create hydroponics using the reservoir method is surprisingly easy. The first thing needed is a tub to hold the water and the plants, it can be a fish tank or a large bin or container. Following this, a sheet of Styrofoam should be cut out to the bottom dimensions of the tub with a quarter inch less than each dimension. Then, the plant pots should be appropriately arranged on the Styrofoam tray and traced in a formation that will allow each plant to get the light they need. Cut a hole in the Styrofoam along the tracings so that the plant containers can rest on the tray easily.
The next step is to get an air pump specific for the amount of water in the tub (be sure to measure how many gallons it takes to fill your reservoir). Connect the pump to the tub so the airline is well below the tray so that the oxygen flow can reach the roots of the plants.
The plant containers used can be filled with soil or another growing agent or they can simply support the seeds from falling in the water.
Make sure to supplement the water with nutrients depending on the growing material used for the plants. Once the air pump, tray and containers are complete, fill the halfway to two thirds with water and drop the tray in. Add the pots, and place a grow lamp overhead, turning it on and off every 12 hours. That's the basics for deep water culture hydroponics! We'll be back with more ways to keep your kitchen full of greens in the winter!
For detailed information on creating your own aquaponics setup, click here
.
Originally published at Make it Missoula
By PAUL WHEATON
I used to sell my chickens for almost exactly the same price I paid for feed. And the story for the eggs was pretty much the same. This is not sustainable.
So I started exploring ways to cut feed costs and ended up on techniques that not only eliminate feed costs, but also provides a far higher quality of feed! My goal was to cut my chicken feed bill by 80% or more.
When I was first trying to figure out a better solution, I was thinking about growing all the stuff that comes in a bag of feed. Grain mostly.
So then I was thinking that I would harvest it, store it, and feed it to the chickens later. Wow, a lot of work. And I’m a lazy bastard. So what can I do to be lazier? Can I get the chickens to maybe harvest some of it? I’ll plant the grain and put the chickens where the grain is and they will figure out how to get it? I see other birds doing that.
In time my plans grew bigger and bigger. After all, if you let the chickens into the garden, they will eat damn near everything. While that leaves less garden for me, that also makes for less chicken feed bill.
So then I got the idea of planting a lot of perennial stuff that chickens like. And how about stuff that is annual, but manages to reseed itself? And fruit trees? Berry canes?
This whole path became richer and richer and richer. And now …. ladies and gentlemen, I present to you …. a system where I spend absolutely zero on chicken feed. And the chickens eat a far richer diet than moldy, dried up, commercial “ chicken feed.”
Wanting something that the chickens can harvest themselves, I considered two angles: 1) most chicken food per acre per year, and 2) most chicken food per acre in January. Imagine an area for the chickens which has an enormous mulberry tree dropping fruit throughout June, July and August. There is a plethora of clover, alfalfa, grains, sunflowers, buckwheat, peas, and lentils in the more open areas. Fruit and nut trees are surrounded by siberian pea shrubs, chickweed, comfrey, dandelion, amaranth, nettles, and sunchokes. Maybe some raspberries and blueberries are in the mix too.
Assuming it is summer, why would a chicken eat dried up “chicken feed” with this bounty at hand?
Generally I have a lot more chickens in the summer time, before many get moved to the freezer, but I still need winter chicken feed. What, specifically, to grow depends on a lot of factors.
Source: Irene Kightley
How much room do you have; how cold does it get; what is your soil like; how much does it rain …. Some plants produce more food per acre per year than other plants. And some produce food for a just a week and others produce food for six months.
The best producers appear to be mulberry trees (lots of fruit dropped constantly over three months) and wheat (when grown with the
method). Sepp Holzer pushes a perennial rye and sunchokes as the core chicken/pig feeds.
I advocate using the
. And along with that, I think that the lion’s share of the people food should be grown in those same paddocks. A lot of the stuff we eat is great chicken food! And the chickens clean up anything we drop and anything we leave behind. Less waste.
So, my top 10 list of the
is a work in progress, but mulberry trees definitely makes my #1 spot. They are perennial and are heavy producers of feed all summer. And, they actually contain protein! They sound rather dreamy for chicken feed!
Other crops I’m experimenting with:
Kale
Raspberries (they will take the low berries and will leave the high berries)
Fall field peas/lentils that dried and are still sitting out there at chicken head level
Winter keeper apples that are still falling off the tree
Other fruit? Brazilian cherry, peaches, sea buckthorn, figs, honey locust seeds?
Grasses, clover
Chickens are omnivores and will eat meat protein. I’ve actually seen a chicken catch and eat a mouse.
The protein source for chickens is typically insects. In the winter, a little extra protein makes an ENORMOUS difference in laying quantity. I experimented with leaving some
in some chicken feed for a few weeks and it pretty much translated into low protein chicken feed converting itself into high protein chicken feed with very little effort. It seems like a big winner and pretty cost effective.
Along this line, why not use maggots for chicken feed? Turn leftover meat waste, road kill, sickly critters, (
not-so-pleasant things)
into nutritious food for the chicken by feeding them the maggots that arise from fly eggs. The chickens love them!
And if you are really enthusiastic, chickens have been trained to eat slugs!
*******************
Paul Wheaton is is the tyrannical ruler of two on-line communities. One is about permaculture and one is about software engineering. There is even one for Missoula. Paul has written several
starting with one on
that he presented at the
17 years ago, including articles on
,
and
. Paul also regularly uploads
and
. In his spare time, Paul has plans for world domination and is currently shopping for a hollowed out volcano in the Missoula area, with good submarine access.
See all of Paul’s contributions to Make it Missoula
.
By Jackson Pittman
has entered the digital (music) age with a new program running on its main office computer:
!
is an integrated music recording and production studio with unlimited audio tracks, million-dollar mixing, and a massive collection of sounds included. Reason comes with all the instruments, effects, and mixing tools you need for writing, recording, remixing and producing great-sounding tracks. This will now be permanently accessible on Better Farm's desktop computer for all
and
to try. Below are some basic instructions explaining the complicated mechanics of the program.
(Editor's note: Check out the tracks Jackson made by
.)
Overview
To make a song on reason create an instrument and use the on screen piano keys to make melodies. The melodies can be arranged in the sequencer section.
'Reason' Tutorial
When accessing Reason through the icon on the desktop (as opposed to using a previously saved .rsn file), a Demo Song will appear. To make an original song, the first thing you'll need to do is make a new document. This is the first option under the file category at the upper-left corner of the Reason document (or Ctrl+N). The file menu has simple functions: create a new document, open a saved document, save an unsaved document, and an important one which will be explained later, exporting the document.
The interface of the program is set up with two main sections. There is the virtual hardware section, and the sequencer sections. The virtual hardware section is at the top and displays all the instruments and effect patches being used—as well as the mixer and mastering suite, which are what every new document begins with. Any instrument created will be hooked up to the mixer board so that once all instruments are in use you can adjust their volumes, treble and bass levels, and pan them to the left or right through the mixer without having to go to each instrument individually.
If an instrument is not plugged into the mixer it won't have any sound output. By pressing the tab button on the keyboard, the hardware section flips to the backside and displays all wires and connections between the machines (these can be changed manually). The mastering suite (when expanded by clicking the sideways arrow at its left-hand side) can compress the entire track, increase the volume, or adjust the equalizer of the entire track as needed. Although the mastering suite and mixer are essentials every new document starts with, they are used at the end of the project to finish and polish the song. They are not necessary tools for the new user but if something goes wrong (i.e. an instrument is not making sound) it is important to check them (especially the mixer).
The second section on the bottom of the screen is the sequencer. When loops are recorded into reason they can be arranged here, and notes can be edited. There there is an icon for every instrument in the hardware section (shortcut: select your instruments in the sequencing section). Underneath the sequencing section are some important essentials: tempo, time signature, time, position, and metronome. The click marks the tempo of the song and can be turned on and off. A pre-click can be used to give a sample of the tempo right before recording.
Under the sequencing section there are also the standard forward, backward, stop, pause, play and record buttons. There is also a button that looks like a plus sign that will add a lane to any instrument. To the right of that is the loop button, which turns the loop in the sequencer section (marked by the left and right bumpers) on and off. Instruments and Effects So now that the basics are somewhat understood the fun stuff can (almost) start happening.
Under the create menu at the top of the document, a specific instrument or effect could be created, or one of the hardware devices can be selected. When an instrument is selected, press F4 and the onscreen piano keys will show up and the melodies can begin! Any instrument has many patches which can be browsed through using up and down arrows on the device, or through a small folder icon which will display all of the patches. These patches are pre-made sounds which are easy to use. To create an original sound, the instrument must be highlighted, and then under the edit menu 'initialize patch' must be selected. This turns the specific device into a black slate that can be adjusted using the various knobs and wheels of the instrument.
For synthesizers such as the Subtractor, Malstrom and Thor, an initialized patch can be completely reprogrammed to a unique sound (Thor has a button on the bottom which reads 'show programmer' which access its extensive machinery). However, for samplers such as the NNXT and NN19, and even the Redrum Drum Machine, samples can be used as sounds when the device is initialized using the folder-like icon. On the NNXT, once the remote editor is accessed (through a tiny arrow button on its bottom left corner), a second folder icon will appear and this is the one that will allow a sample to be played (the other one changes the patch, but when the patch is initialized all the pre-made samples are erased). It's complicated but this is how to created original sounds.
The Redrum drum computer is a particularly interesting machine which has ten notes, numerically labelled, which can each hold a sample. Although this machine can be played on the on-screen keys, it can also be sequenced on the 16 steps at the bottom of the device. Select one of the drum sounds and then select steps on the sequencer and the sound will automatically repeat to the selected tempo!
It's truly amazing.
Also, the number of steps can be changed, so to have a more complicated drum pattern the step count can be brought up to 32 from sixteen, and that higher range of steps can be accessed through a sliding switch directly above the steps called edit steps which has 1-64 sections in multiples of 16. Another cool thing about Redrum is that you can change the pace of the sequencer, making it double time or half time of the tempo, by adjusting the resolution, also right above the step sequencer. In addition to that, there are 4 banks labelled A,B,C and D, each with 8 patterns to them, allowing a total of 32 separate patterns to be stored on the same drum machine.
To copy the drum notes from the drum sequencer to the sequencer section, select the Redrum device and go to edit, and select Copy pattern to track. Once that is done, to prevent the drum machine from playing over the drum notes in the sequencer, disable the button above the 'run' button (which runs the sequencer) that reads 'enable pattern section'. Effect patches are directly under the devices in the create menu. These are pretty self-explanitory (distortion, reverb, compressor), however always make sure the desired device is selected before creating the effect patch for it!
Finale
To get the song off of Reason, place the left- and right-loop bumpers at the beginning and end of the song, go to the file menu, and click export loop! That's it!
Well, I hope I didn't unnecessarily complicate things, I just wanted to have a little
troubleshooting guide for the digital music making program I use so frequently. A lot of this stuff is easy to figure out on your own, and with a software as vast as reason experimentation is the best way to learn! But this guide is here for reference and... stuff like that! Happy playing!
Samples
Here are a few samples of the music I've created:
See more: