Remodeling the Garden: Mandala update

The Rapunzels help to turn the soil over in Better Farm's future mandala garden site.
By Jackson Pittman
As we prepare for the snow, we are renovating our garden and reinventing it by adding a mandala design around the tree near the back

A four-quadrant circle is being constructed at a 200-inch radius around the tree. The former gravel pit around the tree has been dug up so the gravel can be redistributed to form a circular pathway within the mandala design and to create the quadrants. 
Here are a few shots of that process:

Before the paths of the garden will be formed the circle will get completely leveled and covered with cardboard, and then quarters in between the gravel will be mulched for fertile soil for planting. We are all really excited about it over here at Better Farm and will continue to update it as it goes on.

Meanwhile, in the rest of the garden...
I've been using spent hay from the chicken coops to direct-mulch on existing and new garden rows (the garden will be roughly doubled in size next spring); and using newer hay plus compost to create a healthy mulch for plants next season.
To learn more about our mulch-gardening methods, click here.
Comment

Nicole Caldwell

Nicole Caldwell is a self-taught environmentalist, green-living savant and sustainability educator with more than a decade of professional writing experience. She is also the co-founder of Better Farm and president of betterArts. Nicole’s work has been featured in Mother Earth News, Reader’s Digest, Time Out New York, and many other publications. Her first book, Better: The Everyday Art of Sustainable Living, is due out this July through New Society Publishers.

Research Resource: Commercial Storage of Fruits, Vegetables, and Florist and Nursery Stocks

The USDA regularly produces its Agricultural Handbook 66 – “The Commercial Storage of Fruits, Vegetables, and Florist and Nursery Stocks” to help guide long-term storage of these products. The handbook is dense, with info on optimal storage conditions for everything from Jerusalem Artichokes to Watercress. Each crop is given a brief overview which summarizes the expected loss when stored at certain conditions and also a summary of respiration rates to help with the sizing of any refrigeration that may be needed.

Many growers are probably familiar with the green book from 1986.  But did you know that a newer version is available online

Unlike previous editions, this edition presents summaries of the storage requirements of fresh fruits, vegetables, cut flowers, and other horticultural crops; as well as information on quality characteristics, maturity indices, grading, packaging, pre-cooling, retail display, chilling sensitivity, ethylene production and sensitivity, respiration rates, physiological disorders, postharvest pathology, quarantine issues, and suitability as fresh-cut product.  In addition, a number of fruits and vegetables were added, as well as sections on food safety and fresh-cut produce.

The purpose of storing plant material is to lengthen the time it can be consumed or utilized.  In doing
so, it is critical to provide an environment that minimizes deterioration, maintaining safety and quality while lengthening the marketing- or shelf-life.  The intent of HB-66 is to provide guidelines for storing produce in an optimal environment in order to accomplish this.
Comment

Nicole Caldwell

Nicole Caldwell is a self-taught environmentalist, green-living savant and sustainability educator with more than a decade of professional writing experience. She is also the co-founder of Better Farm and president of betterArts. Nicole’s work has been featured in Mother Earth News, Reader’s Digest, Time Out New York, and many other publications. Her first book, Better: The Everyday Art of Sustainable Living, is due out this July through New Society Publishers.

Sustainability Scholarship!

Annie’s Homegrown is offering $100,000 in scholarship funds to students studying sustainable agriculture. Annie's believes healthy soils and healthy farms are the foundation for healthy foods, which help make healthy people, which is why they provide the scholarships to support the next generation of farmers. Click here to learn more, or read on below! The deadline to apply is Dec. 15.


Annie’s Sustainable Agriculture Scholarship Application

Sustainable and organic agriculture is at the very root of our philosophy. We believe that healthy soils and healthy farms are the foundation for healthy foods, which help make healthy people!
We’re proud to support the next generation of farmers by offering $100,000 in funds to students studying sustainable agriculture.

Eligibility Guidelines
Annie’s Sustainable Agriculture Scholarship Program is open to full time undergraduate and graduate students studying at an accredited 2 or 4 year college or graduate school in the U.S. for the 2013-2014 school year.  Students must be focusing studies on sustainable agriculture.  International students may apply as long as they are studying at a U.S. school.  

Annie’s accepts applications postmarked between Oct. 1, 2012 and Dec. 15, 2012. If you are chosen to receive an award, you will be notified by April 15, 2013, and funds will be dispersed directly to your school on or around July 15, 2013.  

The Application

The application consists of two parts – your application and your supporting documents.
Your Application:
  1. Download and complete the application.
  2. Sign the form and draft a personal statement. 
Supporting Documents:
  1. Official copy of your transcript
  2. Two letters of recommendation who can speak to your commitment to Sustainable Agriculture.
    • The letters of recommendation must be from contacts that are NOT related to you.
    • Letters of recommendation should be in a sealed envelope and the writer should sign the seal. 
Applications and supporting documents should be in ONE envelope to: Annie’s Scholarship Committee, 1610 Fifth Street, Berkeley CA 94710.

Annie’s Scholarship Program FAQs

  • I’m in my first term of school and grades are not yet available, what should I send?Please send the transcript from your high school or undergraduate studies and your current transcript as soon as it’s available.
     
  • I’m not specifically majoring in Sustainable Agriculture, but I am majoring in a related field. Can I still apply?Students whose coursework and extra-curricular activities are related to sustainable agriculture are welcome to apply.
     
  • I’m in the process of applying to schools for the next school year, but am unsure of what school I’ll be attending. What should I do?Please indicate in the “Academic Information” section on your application that you are undecided.

Comment

Nicole Caldwell

Nicole Caldwell is a self-taught environmentalist, green-living savant and sustainability educator with more than a decade of professional writing experience. She is also the co-founder of Better Farm and president of betterArts. Nicole’s work has been featured in Mother Earth News, Reader’s Digest, Time Out New York, and many other publications. Her first book, Better: The Everyday Art of Sustainable Living, is due out this July through New Society Publishers.

Blazing a Trail

The Boys of Better Farm have been downright inspiring in their commitment to culling standing-dead trees on the property for firewood. While trudging through some back brush, they were struck by a long-idling idea: Why not carve out some trails in the woods for four-wheeling, snowmobiling, cross-country skiing, and good-old fashioned hiking?


They've been hard at work in the last few weeks laying out an initial series of trails. Here are a few shots of the network; more to come soon!




Care to volunteer on this or any other project? Get in touch with us at (315) 482-2536 or info@betterfarm.org.
1 Comment

Nicole Caldwell

Nicole Caldwell is a self-taught environmentalist, green-living savant and sustainability educator with more than a decade of professional writing experience. She is also the co-founder of Better Farm and president of betterArts. Nicole’s work has been featured in Mother Earth News, Reader’s Digest, Time Out New York, and many other publications. Her first book, Better: The Everyday Art of Sustainable Living, is due out this July through New Society Publishers.

Compost in the City

By Jackson Pittman

Composting is a great and easy way to put garbage to a real use. By harnessing scraps and organic waste as fuel for plants we can cut down our what we put out to a landfill, and also accommodate life! Stores offer a wide variety of compost and worm containers, but a simple one can be built without having to buy anything! These DIY methods even prevent rodent attraction and block odors if fed the right kinds of waste.

DIY Compost Bin

What you will need:

2 containers (one should be able to fit in the other with room), 1 lid for the larger container, drill, 1 brick and soil or wood chips.

Instructions

Drill half an inch in diameter holes across the bottom and up the sides of the smaller container. Put brick in the bottom of larger container and sit the smaller container on top of it. Fill the space in between the containers with wood chips or soil and place the lid over the larger container.

Wastes to put in

: fruits, vegetables, eggshells, coffee grounds and filters, tea bags, nut shells, shredded newspaper, cardboard, paper, grass clippings, houseplants, hay and straw, leaves, sawdust, wood chips, cotton and wool rags, dryer and vacuum cleaner lint, hair, fur and fireplace ashes

Compost should be ready in 2-5 weeks.

Wastes which will attract pests and produce odors: dairy, eggs and meat products, oils, greases and pet wastes

DIY Worm Bin

What you will need:

composting worms, container (not translucent), lid or rag, lots of shredded paper, several fruit or vegetable scraps

Instructions

Composting worms need 6-7 inches of bedding, and a gallon of worms need about a square foot of space, keeping in mind the worms reproduce and will need to expand. At the end of the vermicomposting cycle more bins will be necessary to accomodate the growing worm population.

Once the right size container is chosen, soak the shredded paper, and then dry it by hand until it has the moisture of a run out sponge. There should be enough paper to spread six to seven inches of bedding across the bottom of the container, and once this is done, throw some produce scraps on so the bacteria can begin to propagate before the worms are introduced (worms love bacteria). Add the worms and close the container-- however since the worms need air you can drill holes in a lid, leave the lid slightly ajar or place a wet, dark , wrung out cloth over the bin (this eliminates light (worms hate light) and keeps the bedding moist while keeping out flies or other pests).

Well-kept worms will be reproducing a lot and can live several years!

Wastes to put in: Fruits, vegetables, paper, plant matter and any food scraps without dairy, meat or grease.

Comment

Nicole Caldwell

Nicole Caldwell is a self-taught environmentalist, green-living savant and sustainability educator with more than a decade of professional writing experience. She is also the co-founder of Better Farm and president of betterArts. Nicole’s work has been featured in Mother Earth News, Reader’s Digest, Time Out New York, and many other publications. Her first book, Better: The Everyday Art of Sustainable Living, is due out this July through New Society Publishers.

Let it Snow!

Ice and Snow.

Ice within the pore spaces of frozen soils typically reduces infiltration rates, but only soils that were saturated on freezing will completely prevent water from entering. Summer melting of the upper layer of permafrost in cold regions often results in a saturated zone of soil above the frozen ground.

Precipitation that falls as snow is stored until snowmelt, when a large pulse of runoff may be generated. Runoff occurs only after the entire snowpack has reached 0°C (32°F), some melting has occurred, and pore spaces between snow grains can no longer hold all the water supplied.

The rate of snowmelt depends on heat inputs into the snowpack through solar radiation and via water from melting and rainfall moving through the snow. The soil surface underneath the melting snowpack may become saturated, such that runoff flows through the base of the snowpack toward streams. Saturated zones and surface runoff commonly occur on slopes below the melting

snow line

.

Read more:

http://www.waterencyclopedia.com/Re-St/Runoff-Factors-Affecting.html#ixzz2DY8QkgXY

How This Year's Snowfall will Influence Next Year's Gardens and Farms

Many people understand that a water table has something to do with ground water, but they may not understand fully

what a water table entails or the purpose it serves

—and what weather elements cause the water table to fluctuate. In this blog, we'll break down water tables and explain how a nice winter of snow can actually ensure your gardens have plenty of water next year.

The "zone of saturation" is the underground depth at which the ground is totally saturated with water. The upper surface of this zone is called the water table. It is also the level at which groundwater pressure is equal to atmospheric pressure. Much of the water present on Earth is trapped under the ground. Rain, river and stream runoff and snow melt contribute to the water that seeps down into the soil and eventually into deposits of water under the ground. When water deposits are large enough to be used as a water source, they are known as aquifers.

The water table can fluctuate depending on the season and weather conditions. When there is an excess of rain or runoff, the water table may rise considerably. During periods of drought, the water table may diminish.

It's also important to note that a water table is not a flat line of water. The table actually fluctuates depending on the landscape and human modification of subterranean topography. The water table may be shallow in some areas and deep in others. In some cases, people may live in areas with a "high water table." The water may be enough to saturate the ground and contribute to springs where water flows naturally from rock onto the surface of the land. Springs may seep from places where the water table intersects the land surface. Water may also flow out of the ground along fractures. A high water table may contribute to leaks in basements and crawl spaces. That's because hydrostatic pressure, or the pressure of the groundwater pressing up against the home foundation, can cause the water to find weak points and other areas of entry. In these instances, a method of keeping the water from entering the home may need to be investigated.

Some people and industries tap the water table and aquifers for use. Underground water can provide irrigation for crops or be used to bring water to a home instead of relying on public water supplies. When a well is sunk to pump ground water, it must be put deep enough to reach the zone of saturation.

In areas with sufficient precipitation, water infiltrates through pore spaces in the soil, passing through the unsaturated zone. At increasing depths water fills in more of the pore spaces in the soils, until the zone of saturation is reached. In permeable or porous materials, such as sands and well fractured bedrock, the water table forms a relatively horizontal plane. Below the water table, in the

phreatic zone

, permeable units that yield groundwater are called

aquifers

. The ability of the

aquifer

to store

groundwater

is dependent on the primary and secondary

porosity

and

permeability

of the rock or soil. In less permeable soils, such as tight bedrock formations and historic lakebed deposits, the water table may be more difficult to define.

The water table should not be confused with the water level in a deeper well. If a deeper

aquifer

has a lower permeable unit that confines the upward flow, then the water level in a well screened in this aquifer may rise to a level that is greater or less than the elevation of the actual water table. The elevation of the water in this deeper well is dependent upon the pressure in the deeper aquifer and is referred to as the

potentiometric surface

, not the water table.

Snowfall

Generally speaking,

snow will raise the water table for longer than rain will

. Once the ground is saturated, rain will just continue to run off the surface, and no longer impact the local water table. However if in that same watershed, the precipitation falls as snow and it does not melt immediately then it will have a delayed impact on the water table, raising the water table later in the spring when the snow melts. In many seasonally arid mountainous places, the water table is dependent on snow melt through the dry season. So if that snow falls as rain, if temperatures rise, than those regions will not have the more continued water source that both the human and ecological communities depend on.

How does snow affect water supplies?

In the western United States, mountain snow pack contributes up to 75 percent of all year-round surface water supplies.

Snow that falls this winter will melt out of the ground in the spring, providing young plants with plenty of hydration.

What is the water content of snow?

The commonly used ten-to-one ratio of snowfall to water content is a myth for much of the United States. This ratio varies from as low as 100-to-one to as high as about three-to-one depending on the meteorological conditions associated with the snowfall.

Average snowfall amount

Nationwide, the average snowfall amount per day when snow falls is about two inches, but in some mountain areas of the West, an average of seven inches per snow day is observed.

Ice and Snow.

Ice within the pore spaces of frozen soils typically reduces infiltration rates, but only soils that were saturated on freezing will completely prevent water from entering. Summer melting of the upper layer of

permafrost

in cold regions often results in a saturated zone of soil above the frozen ground.

Precipitation that falls as snow is stored until snowmelt, when a large pulse of runoff may be generated. Runoff occurs only after the entire

snowpack

has reached 0°C (32°F), some melting has occurred, and pore spaces between snow grains can no longer hold all the water supplied.

The rate of snowmelt depends on heat inputs into the snowpack through solar radiation and via water from melting and rainfall moving through the snow. The soil surface underneath the melting snowpack may become saturated, such that runoff flows through the base of the snowpack toward streams. Saturated zones and surface runoff commonly occur on slopes below the melting

snow line

.

Read more:

http://www.waterencyclopedia.com/Re-St/Runoff-Factors-Affecting.html#ixzz2DY8QkgXY

How does snow affect water supplies?

In the western United States, mountain snow pack contributes up to 75 percent of all year-round surface water supplies.

What is the water content of snow?

The commonly used ten-to-one ratio of snowfall to water content is a myth for much of the United States. This ratio varies from as low as 100-to-one to as high as about three-to-one depending on the meteorological conditions associated with the snowfall.

Average snowfall amount.

Nationwide, the average snowfall amount per day when snow falls is about two inches, but in some mountain areas of the West, an average of seven inches per snow day is observed.

Ice and Snow.

Ice within the pore spaces of frozen soils typically reduces infiltration rates, but only soils that were saturated on freezing will completely prevent water from entering. Summer melting of the upper layer of

permafrost

in cold regions often results in a saturated zone of soil above the frozen ground.

Precipitation that falls as snow is stored until snowmelt, when a large pulse of runoff may be generated. Runoff occurs only after the entire

snowpack

has reached 0°C (32°F), some melting has occurred, and pore spaces between snow grains can no longer hold all the water supplied.

The rate of snowmelt depends on heat inputs into the snowpack through solar radiation and via water from melting and rainfall moving through the snow. The soil surface underneath the melting snowpack may become saturated, such that runoff flows through the base of the snowpack toward streams. Saturated zones and surface runoff commonly occur on slopes below the melting

snow line

.

Read more:

http://www.waterencyclopedia.com/Re-St/Runoff-Factors-Affecting.html#ixzz2DY8QkgXY

Ice and Snow.

Ice within the pore spaces of frozen soils typically reduces infiltration rates, but only soils that were saturated on freezing will completely prevent water from entering. Summer melting of the upper layer of

permafrost

in cold regions often results in a saturated zone of soil above the frozen ground.

Precipitation that falls as snow is stored until snowmelt, when a large pulse of runoff may be generated. Runoff occurs only after the entire

snowpack

has reached 0°C (32°F), some melting has occurred, and pore spaces between snow grains can no longer hold all the water supplied.

The rate of snowmelt depends on heat inputs into the snowpack through solar radiation and via water from melting and rainfall moving through the snow. The soil surface underneath the melting snowpack may become saturated, such that runoff flows through the base of the snowpack toward streams. Saturated zones and surface runoff commonly occur on slopes below the melting

snow line

.

Read more:

http://www.waterencyclopedia.com/Re-St/Runoff-Factors-Affecting.html#ixzz2DY8QkgXY

Winter Plants

Winter is the

hardest season for a plant's survival

; plants need water to live and in Winter the soil is often frozen with ice and snow, trapping any water within it. The plant can not replace any water losses and as a result, the plant will die. Therefore, plants and trees have adapted various ways in which to survive the Winter.

Which Plants Survive the Winter?

Annual plants do not the survive the Winter and flower for only one growing season; perennial plants do survive the Winter but 'hibernate' under ground. The growth above ground dies at the end of the growing season but the roots of the plant are protected by snow, which acts as insulation; new growth follows in the Spring.

How Snow Helps Winter Plant Survival

Snow is vital to the Winter survival of plants and trees as snow acts as an insulator and protects the plant from harsh, Winter conditions. Snow flakes have a unique structure; snow flakes have small intervening spaces within their structure which are filled with air. This means there is low heat conductivity; as a result, the daily temperature penetration into the snow is minimal and plants are protected from frost and freezing conditions. Once the snow melts, the moisture is also good for the plants.

Actually the old farmers prefer a snowy winter than a smooth winter season.

According to

the scientists, the connection between the cold and the earth is a

natural

one.

During the biggest snow storms, the vegetables in your

garden

will grow even healthier. Of course there are

advantages and disadvantages

, when it comes to

cold winters and veggie

gardens

.

The biggest amounts of snow aren’t that dangerous. They actually protect the vegetables against frost and ice, so the snow is providing a cover for your garden. For instance, snow is very useful for the flavor of many vegetables like Brussels sprouts and parsnips.

It improves their sweetness and makes them tastier. The snow has another major

advantage

, when it comes to healthy vegetables. If there is lot of snow, it kills the pest populations. Pest communities such as aphids can’t survive in low temperatures, so they will not damage your plants during a cold winter. It is a proven fact that the coldest winters are more useful for a veggie garden than a smooth winter.

Snow provides moisture as well as protection from cold and wind. Snow is an excellent insulator against low temperatures and excessive winds. The extent of protection depends on the depth of snow. Generally, the temperature below the snow increases by about 2 degrees F for each inch of accumulation. In addition, the soil gives off some heat so that the temperature at the soil surface can be much warmer than the air temperature. One study found that the soil surface temperature was 28 degrees F with a 9-inch snow depth and an air temperature of -14 F!

Snow brings welcome moisture to many landscape plants, which will in turn help prevent desiccation injury. Even dormant plants continue to lose moisture from twigs (as water vapor) in the process known as transpiration. Evergreen plants, which keep their leaves through the winter, are at even greater risk of injury.

The Effect of Changing Snowfalls on Plants

In some areas of the world snowfall is reducing; in other areas of the world snowfall is occurring earlier in the season than it has traditionally occurred. A

2007 UNEP report

Global Outlook for Snow and Ice stated that in the Northern Hemisphere snowfall had reduced by seven to ten per cent over the last 40 years for the months of March and April. Throughout the Northern Hemisphere, the period of the year when there is no snow cover has also lengthened.

If snowfalls occur early in the Winter season, or even at the end of Fall, some plants may traditionally be unprepared for the sudden climate change which may result in the plant dying; however, should snowfall be later or lighter in the traditional Winter months, plants may struggle to survive too. If high alpine and mountainous areas experience less snow, the traditional plant species found in these areas may eventually alter or die out completely.

When moisture from the sky falls short, it's our job to make up the difference with winter watering.  When we go without a good soaking snow every month or so, we need to drag out our garden hoses and make up for the difference.  Remember that on average, in our soil, 85% of a tree's roots are in the top 12- to 18-inches of soil.  Trees, shrubs, perennials and even lawns don't need 

frequent 

winter watering, they need occasional

deep 

winter watering.  There's a big difference. 

Newly-planted trees, shrubs and perennials need enough moisture to soak down to the bottom of their root ball.  More mature plants will have larger root systems, and should be watered near their "drip line," the outer-most point of their branches. 

Comment

Nicole Caldwell

Nicole Caldwell is a self-taught environmentalist, green-living savant and sustainability educator with more than a decade of professional writing experience. She is also the co-founder of Better Farm and president of betterArts. Nicole’s work has been featured in Mother Earth News, Reader’s Digest, Time Out New York, and many other publications. Her first book, Better: The Everyday Art of Sustainable Living, is due out this July through New Society Publishers.

Chicken Nutrition in Comb-Chilling Months

Sissy keeping cozy in winter months. Photo/Jennifer Elizabeth Crone
By Allison Silshere, Nutrena Poultry Expert, for Backyard Poultry

There's a reason why chickens aren't peckish about cold weather. The average chicken has 8,500 feathers, which is a pretty warm winter coat. In fact, chickens can survive cold temperatures down to 20 degrees below zero.

But there's an important caveat: That chicken must be healthy—and especially so if you're expecting winter eggs, to. A chicken who enters winter in poor body condition will not likely improve during cold weather, unless carefully fed and housed. So be proactive. Know how falling temperatures affect chickens. Second, know how to meet their nutritional needs through the comb-chilling cold-weather months.

Hardiness Varies
Even with their downy surrounds, a chicken's hardiness can vary. A flock will likely start suffering earlier than minus 20 F. Precipitation and wind chill dramatically decrease a chicken's threshold for withstanding cold. So no damp, humid coops.

While many owners are quick to fire up a heater, that may not be the best idea. Chickens should have a chance to acclimate to the cold. Heating too soon doesn't let their bodies adjust to the dropping temps, and they go from one extreme to another. When and if you should heat the coop will depend on your conditions, local temperatures, and chicken breed(s).

Here's a good representation of breeds that are hardy through the winter, and that, with the right nutrition, should continue to lay (although at a limited rate) through the cold-weather months:
  • Buckeye
  • Delaware
  • Jersey Giant
  • Plymouth Rock
  • Chantecler
  • Dominique
  • Orpington
  • Wynadotte
Breeds that may not fare as well:
  • Frizzles and Silkies (their unique feathers make it hard for them to hold body heat)
  • Fancy feathered breeds (Example: Polish). They can have problems with their ornamental feathers in ice and snow.
How will you know if your birds are too cold? Look for signs like huddling in one place all day, sluggish behavior, or any hints of frostbite—cold weather combined with black spots on the combs or wattles usually mean frostbite. These areas may blister and weep. They should dry up and may eventually fall off.

Winter Nutrition Guidelines
Winter nutrition emphasizes calories. More calories. Like any wintering animal, chickens work harder and use more energy to keep their bodies warm. The chickens also go from ranging in summer to near total confinement in winter. That means no extras, like free-range bugs, worms, or greens. To help them maintain body weight and keep hens laying, follow these general guidelines:
  1. Feed extra calories—sooner, rather than later. A good, high-quality (winter is not the time to skimp), commercial layer feed will provide enough nutrients. Feed free choice, as your birds will consume what they need and self-regulate their consumption.
  2. Use scratch only as a treat. Fee no more than 10 to 15 percent of the total diet as scratch. Feeding more than this amount will dilute essential protein, vitamins and minerals which can result in decreased laying, feather pecking, etc. The right amount is what your birds will eat in about 15 minutes.
  3. As daylight shortens, chickens will usually begin to molt (beginning around 18 months old) and stop laying. It's especially important to continue with high-quality rations through molt. This will help your birds get back to laying eggs as quickly as possible.
  4. Continue to offer grit and oyster shell free choice year-round.
  5. Water is as important in cold weather as it is in hot weather. Water should be kept clean and at a non-freezing temperature. Some research shows that animals prefer water above 55 degrees. Use common sense here. Heated pet bowls, founts, or bases are good options for chickens during freezing temperatures.

Artificial Lighting and Nutrition
Preventing egg reduction due to changes in natural day length requires artificial lighting. To maintain production, day length must increase or remain constant at about 15 hours per day. While the type of bulb doesn't matter, the light should be just bright enough to read a newspaper. (If you are going to use light bulbs in your coop—for added warmth or to keep the hens laying—o not use Teflon-coated bulbs as the fumes are toxic to birds.‚ Remember, if a lighting program is started, it must be continued. Even a one-day lapse can have a negative impact on egg production.

Especially if you're using artificial light, feeding a high-energy layer feed is important. Continue to offer oyster shell and grit. This will help ensure your hens are able to properly digest their food and have enough calcium to continue laying hard-shelled eggs, all while maintaining body weight, and staying warm and happy.

A Quick Word About Winter Coops
Preparing your coop for winter really is a whole separate topic, and too long to cover here. However keep in mind that a smaller coop in winter is not necessarily better. Cramped coops can breed bad habits among chickens (thus, the phrase, "all cooped up"). Also, don't sacrifice ventilation in an attempt to keep the coop warmer. That will just increase humidity, and the likelihood of frostbite, which can happen in air that's just near freezing. Aim for a dry, draft-free, ample coop coupled with nutritious feed, drinkable water, and cozy bedding. 

Comment

Nicole Caldwell

Nicole Caldwell is a self-taught environmentalist, green-living savant and sustainability educator with more than a decade of professional writing experience. She is also the co-founder of Better Farm and president of betterArts. Nicole’s work has been featured in Mother Earth News, Reader’s Digest, Time Out New York, and many other publications. Her first book, Better: The Everyday Art of Sustainable Living, is due out this July through New Society Publishers.

betterArts Offers Arts Workshop at Hospice Holiday Event Dec. 8

Survivor Outreach Services of Fort Drum

and

Hospice of Jefferson County present:

A Time of Holiday Remembrance

For

children

ages 6 to 12

who have experienced the loss of a loved one

Join us for a time of

Holiday crafts, lunch, and cookie decorating

Held at Hospice Facility 1398 Gotham St., Watertown

December 8, 2012

11:00 -1:30

bett

erArts, Inc., invites f

amilie

s

to join in the making of a collage in honor of their loved one by coming from 12:45-1:30.

Please bring pictures to use in this activity

.

To RSVP or for more information

contact Joyce Combs 788-7323

by Dec. 3

Funding for this betterArts project was made possible by

Watertown Evening Rotary

.

Comment

Nicole Caldwell

Nicole Caldwell is a self-taught environmentalist, green-living savant and sustainability educator with more than a decade of professional writing experience. She is also the co-founder of Better Farm and president of betterArts. Nicole’s work has been featured in Mother Earth News, Reader’s Digest, Time Out New York, and many other publications. Her first book, Better: The Everyday Art of Sustainable Living, is due out this July through New Society Publishers.

Better Farm's Autumn Newsletter

Click here to read the newsletter in your web browser


Hello, Friends of Better Farm!

With summer behind us and winter bearing down, at Better Farm we've used the autumn months to ready our gardens for winter, continue our ongoing project of rehabilitating a bunch of rescued chickens, start some interior renovations, and explore partnership opportunities with area businesses, schools, and organizations. As we enter our fourth year of programming, it's a blessing to be able to look back at what was a record year for us in attendance for workshops, internships, and artist residencies. Our community outreach has hit an all-time high, and we've really begun to make a name for ourselves in this little hamlet along the Canadian border. Creating a true synthesis for sustainability initiatives and artistic expression is a direct result of your support and interest—so thank you, thank you, thank you!

Whether we're splitting wood, installing the groundwork for a hobbit house or mandala garden, dreaming up new educational activities, or lending our voices at community events or in classrooms, —all while continuing our initial mission of giving everyone who passes through this special space the opportunity to seize his or her moments and truly embrace the idea of seeing each hardship—and blessing—as an opportunity to grow, expand, and be better. Thank you to all who have been involved and showed support for these projects! You can learn more about how to get on board with our endeavors below.
Please contact us to schedule a visit or tour, or visit www.betterfarm.org to find out more about what we're doing.

Until next time, better be.

Nicole Caldwell
Executive Director and Co-Founder
Better Farm
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Better Farm News - Autumn 2012:

• Rundown of Recent Activities

• Newest Additions to Our Flock: Interns & Artists-in-Residence

• Upcoming Initiatives and Projects

• Holiday Shopping for a Great Cause
Rundown of Recent Activities


The last few months have set all kinds of records for community outreach and on-site events. Here's a quick rundown of what we've been up to:
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Newest Additions to Our Flock: This Season's Interns and Artists-in-Residence



Our cast and crew in the last year is as diverse as ever, with artists and interns visiting us from every vocation. Here's a short list of who's visited us since we last checked in:
Interns
Salman Akhtar
Elyna Grapstein
Jackson Pittman

BetterArts Artists-in-Residence
Kristie Hayes BeaulieuKristie Hayes Beaulieu is a high school art teacher and professional visual artist who visited us for two weeks from Syracuse, N.Y. through the betterArts residency program. Her work has been featured in more than a dozen group and solo exhibitions in galleries as far away as Detroit, and her recent "x-ray art series" has been featured on the cover of Academic Medicine and the American Society of Radiologic Technologists' medical publication.
Sally Jane Kerschen-SheppardSally Jane Kerschen-Sheppard is an award-winning playwright, certified yoga instructor, production manager for theatre events, and worker in the not-for-profit sector who joined us for the month of August to work on a new, full-length play.
Kevin Carr—Kevin Carr is a 22-year-old artist from Canandaigua, N.Y., who joined us for the month of September. He attended Alfred University's School of Art and Design to receive a bachelor of fine arts with a minor in women's studies. He has also served as director of Alfred University's Robert C. Turner Student Gallery, and as a teaching assistant at his school's painting department. His work has appeared in several galleries and in print.
Lily Chiu —Lily Chiu is a writer and poet who joined us this month. She is a Stanford University graduate who's alternately worked as a project manager for Boltnet, director of Marketing with eduFire, and senior sales engineer with Omniture. Lily spent her betterArts residency continuing a body of work about contradictions; particularly what it means to be alive through the juxtaposition of nature and human beings. Ultimately this work is moving toward a larger collection of her writing.

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Upcoming Initiatives and Projects

We've got no shortage of upcoming projects in and around Better Farm, from garden designs to interior renovations to education and outreach. Here's what we've got on tap so far...
  • Mandala Garden—The Mandala Garden is a popular permaculture design approach. Mandala is a Sanskrit word meaning "circle", and the geometric garden design was first proposed by Linda Woodrow in her book The Permaculture Home Garden. The art of Buddhism and Hinduism often takes the mandala form. True to permaculture fashion, the actual mandala shape in a garden application is malleable in accordance with conditions in your own backyard (slope, water runoff, orientation toward the sun). Building a mandala garden is a great way to break up your garden beds into a riot of living colour, allowing easy accessibility and visual interest. It’s circular in shape and has a number of keyhole paths or spokes that invite you to look closer at the assortment of plants on display. Intern Jackson Pittman has taken measurements for a mandala garden at Better Farm, which will be located in the middle of our existing, main garden. He'll have the whole thing mapped out by the time he leaves, making for easy implementation come spring.
  • Hobbit HouseBack in September, a few of us took a hike on Better Farm's property to scout out a perfect location for a hobbit house. One of our favorite potential spots was this, the foundation for the farm's original, 19th-century barn. A few of members of our work crew last month took a chainsaw to the sumac and other trees within the foundation, soon after which we cleared out remaining brush so we would have a blank canvas to work with.For the next step, our chief designer Aaron Youngs will be applying his measurements of the space to determine what we need for tires to build exterior walls, and he'll be consulting with some real-deal architects to create legitimate architectural drawings to work off of. We'll start the bulk of the construction in the spring.
  • Earth Ship—Another project we've been working on, is the creation of our Earth Ship. Started over the summer and continued this fall, the structure will boast tire walls, a sunken floor, and living roof.
  • College-Level Curriculum—We're in the process of speaking with several area and remote colleges and universities about creating an immersion in sustainability program at Better Farm. Students would be able to visit in the spring or fall to gain hands-on experience with things like rainwater catchment, permaculture, and alternative energy. Stay tuned for more information and a syllabus!
  • Outreach with Hospice of Jefferson County—BetterArts will send volunteers to participate in Hospice of Jefferson Country's Time of Holiday Remembrance event from 11 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Saturday, Dec. 8 at 1398 Gotham St. in Watertown. The holiday remembrance event is for children ages 6 to 12 who have experienced the loss of a loved one and will feature holiday crafts, lunch, and cookie decorating. To RSVP or for more information, contact Joyce Combs at (315) 788-7323 by Dec. 3.
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Holiday Shopping for a Great Cause
This year, use your money and gift-giving prowess to support artists and farmers instead of big box stores and imported goods. Here's a quick list of great gift go-tos:
  • Sponsor a Spent Hen—Back in late August, we adopted 20 "spent hens" from a local egg farm. There, the female birds' confined space didn't allow the ladies to stretch their wings or legs, or fulfill normal behavioral patterns or social needs like scratching in the dirt, chasing bugs, and taking dust baths. This was a sad-looking bunch of birds. As you can imagine, constantly rubbing against the wire cages meant these birds—all of whom we named Rapunzel—lost a lot of feathers; and many of the ladies had lots of bruises and abrasions. In order to reduce injuries resulting from excessive pecking—a behavior that occurs when confined hens are bored, stressed, or frustrated—the front of the laying hens' beaks had been cut off. Since then, we've given the birds plenty of space to run around at Better Farm, scratch in the dirt, learn all about dust baths, and eat to their hearts' content under the bright sun, blue sky, and fresh air. We've fed them a steady diet of layer feed mixed with cracked corn (to help them put on weight against the cooler temperatures) and lots of delicious food scraps from Better Farm's kitchen. Two months have never seemed so critical, or life-altering. It only costs $5/month to sponsor one of our rescued hens!
  • Better Farm MerchandiseClick here to see what we've got!
  • BetterArts MerchandiseClick here to see what we've got!
  • Buy From Local ArtistsClick here to see a rundown of recent visiting artists—many of these links will redirect you to those artists' home pages, where you can commission work or buy already-existing pieces. Or, visit sites like Etsy.com to find all kinds of great, homemade gifts.
Comment

Nicole Caldwell

Nicole Caldwell is a self-taught environmentalist, green-living savant and sustainability educator with more than a decade of professional writing experience. She is also the co-founder of Better Farm and president of betterArts. Nicole’s work has been featured in Mother Earth News, Reader’s Digest, Time Out New York, and many other publications. Her first book, Better: The Everyday Art of Sustainable Living, is due out this July through New Society Publishers.

Have a Happy Thanksgiving!

Ready for the Thanksgiving feast.
There is so much to be thankful for.

At Better Farm, we're blessed on a regular basis with new faces; people from all walks of life and all over the world who are interested in living closer to the earth, expanding their horizons, and honing their crafts. All these different energies and perspectives are best witnessed during family dinners at the farm. We gather together: interns and artists and students, locals who grew up in and around Redwood, people from California and New York and Singapore and Kenya. We all sit down and tell our stories. We ask questions and debate and imagine. To celebrate such diversity of ideas and peopleness, we hosted a small-ish community dinner party Saturday. Here's what we had (e-mail us for recipes!):

Menu

Turkey
Gardein Holiday Roast
Zucchini Bread (zucchini from the garden)
Foccaccia Bread
Corn Bread
Cranberry Sauce
Hubbard Squash (squash from the garden)
Smashed Potatoes
Stuffing
Gravy
Braised Brussel Sprouts with liquid aminos and apple sauce (sprouts from the garden)
Stuffed Mushrooms
Pumpkin/Hubbard Squash Pie (pumpkin and squash from the garden)

Backyard eggs used in bread recipes.
Dinner party cast of characters
And here's our beloved zucchini bread recipe:
Zucchini Bread
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees
Mix together:
 3 cups of sugar
1 cup of cooking oil
4 whisked eggs

Set aside the mixture.

In a separate bowl, mix together:
3 and 1/3 cups of white flour
2 cups grated zucchini
2 teaspoons of baking soda
1 teaspoon of salt
1 teaspoon of cinnamon
1 teaspoon of nutmeg
1.5 teaspoons of pumpkin pie spice

Here's to wishing you all a day of remembering all you have to be thankful for!
Comment

Nicole Caldwell

Nicole Caldwell is a self-taught environmentalist, green-living savant and sustainability educator with more than a decade of professional writing experience. She is also the co-founder of Better Farm and president of betterArts. Nicole’s work has been featured in Mother Earth News, Reader’s Digest, Time Out New York, and many other publications. Her first book, Better: The Everyday Art of Sustainable Living, is due out this July through New Society Publishers.

Hydroponics: Reservoir method

Up here in Redwood we're receiving frost every night and expecting snow anytime. During these times when the garden doesn't produce as much we like, we have come up with simple instructions for creating a homemade hydroponic system.

To create hydroponics using the reservoir method is surprisingly easy. The first thing needed is a tub to hold the water and the plants, it can be a fish tank or a large bin or container. Following this, a sheet of Styrofoam should be cut out to the bottom dimensions of the tub with a quarter inch less than each dimension. Then, the plant pots should be appropriately arranged on the Styrofoam tray and traced in a formation that will allow each plant to get the light they need. Cut a hole in the Styrofoam along the tracings so that the plant containers can rest on the tray easily.

The next step is to get an air pump specific for the amount of water in the tub (be sure to measure how many gallons it takes to fill your reservoir). Connect the pump to the tub so the airline is well below the tray so that the oxygen flow can reach the roots of the plants.

The plant containers used can be filled with soil or another growing agent or they can simply support the seeds from falling in the water.

Make sure to supplement the water with nutrients depending on the growing material used for the plants. Once the air pump, tray and containers are complete, fill the halfway to two thirds with water and drop the tray in. Add the pots, and place a grow lamp overhead, turning it on and off every 12 hours. That's the basics for deep water culture hydroponics! We'll be back with more ways to keep your kitchen full of greens in the winter!

For detailed information on creating your own aquaponics setup, click here

.

Comment

Nicole Caldwell

Nicole Caldwell is a self-taught environmentalist, green-living savant and sustainability educator with more than a decade of professional writing experience. She is also the co-founder of Better Farm and president of betterArts. Nicole’s work has been featured in Mother Earth News, Reader’s Digest, Time Out New York, and many other publications. Her first book, Better: The Everyday Art of Sustainable Living, is due out this July through New Society Publishers.

How to Cut Chicken Feed Costs

Destiny's Child (at right) and Kiwi lead the chicken brigade at Better Farm.

Originally published at Make it Missoula

By PAUL WHEATON

I used to sell my chickens for almost exactly the same price I paid for feed. And the story for the eggs was pretty much the same. This is not sustainable.

So I started exploring ways to cut feed costs and ended up on techniques that not only eliminate feed costs, but also provides a far higher quality of feed! My goal was to cut my chicken feed bill by 80% or more.

When I was first trying to figure out a better solution, I was thinking about growing all the stuff that comes in a bag of feed. Grain mostly.

So then I was thinking that I would harvest it, store it, and feed it to the chickens later. Wow, a lot of work. And I’m a lazy bastard. So what can I do to be lazier? Can I get the chickens to maybe harvest some of it? I’ll plant the grain and put the chickens where the grain is and they will figure out how to get it? I see other birds doing that.

In time my plans grew bigger and bigger. After all, if you let the chickens into the garden, they will eat damn near everything. While that leaves less garden for me, that also makes for less chicken feed bill.

So then I got the idea of planting a lot of perennial stuff that chickens like. And how about stuff that is annual, but manages to reseed itself? And fruit trees? Berry canes?

This whole path became richer and richer and richer. And now …. ladies and gentlemen, I present to you …. a system where I spend absolutely zero on chicken feed. And the chickens eat a far richer diet than moldy, dried up, commercial “ chicken feed.”

Wanting something that the chickens can harvest themselves, I considered two angles: 1) most chicken food per acre per year, and 2) most chicken food per acre in January. Imagine an area for the chickens which has an enormous mulberry tree dropping fruit throughout June, July and August. There is a plethora of clover, alfalfa, grains, sunflowers, buckwheat, peas, and lentils in the more open areas. Fruit and nut trees are surrounded by siberian pea shrubs, chickweed, comfrey, dandelion, amaranth, nettles, and sunchokes. Maybe some raspberries and blueberries are in the mix too.

Assuming it is summer, why would a chicken eat dried up “chicken feed” with this bounty at hand?

Generally I have a lot more chickens in the summer time, before many get moved to the freezer, but I still need winter chicken feed. What, specifically, to grow depends on a lot of factors.

Source: Irene Kightley

How much room do you have; how cold does it get; what is your soil like; how much does it rain …. Some plants produce more food per acre per year than other plants. And some produce food for a just a week and others produce food for six months.

The best producers appear to be mulberry trees (lots of fruit dropped constantly over three months) and wheat (when grown with the

Fukuoka-Bonfils winter wheat

method). Sepp Holzer pushes a perennial rye and sunchokes as the core chicken/pig feeds.

I advocate using the

chicken paddock shift system

. And along with that, I think that the lion’s share of the people food should be grown in those same paddocks. A lot of the stuff we eat is great chicken food! And the chickens clean up anything we drop and anything we leave behind. Less waste.

So, my top 10 list of the

best perennial chicken feed

is a work in progress, but mulberry trees definitely makes my #1 spot. They are perennial and are heavy producers of feed all summer. And, they actually contain protein! They sound rather dreamy for chicken feed!

Other crops I’m experimenting with:

Chickens are omnivores and will eat meat protein. I’ve actually seen a chicken catch and eat a mouse.

The protein source for chickens is typically insects. In the winter, a little extra protein makes an ENORMOUS difference in laying quantity. I experimented with leaving some

meal worms

in some chicken feed for a few weeks and it pretty much translated into low protein chicken feed converting itself into high protein chicken feed with very little effort. It seems like a big winner and pretty cost effective.

Along this line, why not use maggots for chicken feed? Turn leftover meat waste, road kill, sickly critters, (

not-so-pleasant things)

into nutritious food for the chicken by feeding them the maggots that arise from fly eggs. The chickens love them!

And if you are really enthusiastic, chickens have been trained to eat slugs!

*******************

Paul Wheaton is is the tyrannical ruler of two on-line communities. One is about permaculture and one is about software engineering. There is even one for Missoula. Paul has written several 

permaculture articles

 starting with one on 

lawn care

 that he presented at the 

MUD Project

 17 years ago, including articles on 

raising chickens

cast iron

 and 

diatomaceous earth

. Paul also regularly uploads

permaculture videos

 and 

permaculture podcasts

. In his spare time, Paul has plans for world domination and is currently shopping for a hollowed out volcano in the Missoula area, with good submarine access.

See all of Paul’s contributions to Make it Missoula

here

.

Comment

Nicole Caldwell

Nicole Caldwell is a self-taught environmentalist, green-living savant and sustainability educator with more than a decade of professional writing experience. She is also the co-founder of Better Farm and president of betterArts. Nicole’s work has been featured in Mother Earth News, Reader’s Digest, Time Out New York, and many other publications. Her first book, Better: The Everyday Art of Sustainable Living, is due out this July through New Society Publishers.

Crash-Course in Digital Recording: Proppelerhead's Reason

By Jackson Pittman

Better Farm

has entered the digital (music) age with a new program running on its main office computer:

Proppelerhead's Reason 5

!

Reason

is an integrated music recording and production studio with unlimited audio tracks, million-dollar mixing, and a massive collection of sounds included. Reason comes with all the instruments, effects, and mixing tools you need for writing, recording, remixing and producing great-sounding tracks. This will now be permanently accessible on Better Farm's desktop computer for all

artists

and

interns

to try. Below are some basic instructions explaining the complicated mechanics of the program.

(Editor's note: Check out the tracks Jackson made by

clicking here

.)

Overview 

To make a song on reason create an instrument and use the on screen piano keys to make melodies. The melodies can be arranged in the sequencer section.

'Reason' Tutorial

When accessing Reason through the icon on the desktop (as opposed to using a previously saved .rsn file), a Demo Song will appear. To make an original song, the first thing you'll need to do is make a new document. This is the first option under the file category at the upper-left corner of the Reason document (or Ctrl+N). The file menu has simple functions: create a new document, open a saved document, save an unsaved document, and an important one which will be explained later, exporting the document.

The interface of the program is set up with two main sections. There is the virtual hardware section, and the sequencer sections. The virtual hardware section is at the top and displays all the instruments and effect patches being used—as well as the mixer and mastering suite, which are what every new document begins with. Any instrument created will be hooked up to the mixer board so that once all instruments are in use you can adjust their volumes, treble and bass levels, and pan them to the left or right through the mixer without having to go to each instrument individually.

If an instrument is not plugged into the mixer it won't have any sound output. By pressing the tab button on the keyboard, the hardware section flips to the backside and displays all wires and connections between the machines (these can be changed manually). The mastering suite (when expanded by clicking the sideways arrow at its left-hand side) can compress the entire track, increase the volume, or adjust the equalizer of the entire track as needed. Although the mastering suite and mixer are essentials every new document starts with, they are used at the end of the project to finish and polish the song. They are not necessary tools for the new user but if something goes wrong (i.e. an instrument is not making sound) it is important to check them (especially the mixer).

The second section on the bottom of the screen is the sequencer. When loops are recorded into reason they can be arranged here, and notes can be edited. There there is an icon for every instrument in the hardware section (shortcut: select your instruments in the sequencing section). Underneath the sequencing section are some important essentials: tempo, time signature, time, position, and metronome. The click marks the tempo of the song and can be turned on and off. A pre-click can be used to give a sample of the tempo right before recording.

Under the sequencing section there are also the standard forward, backward, stop, pause, play and record buttons. There is also a button that looks like a plus sign that will add a lane to any instrument. To the right of that is the loop button, which turns the loop in the sequencer section (marked by the left and right bumpers) on and off. Instruments and Effects So now that the basics are somewhat understood the fun stuff can (almost) start happening.

Under the create menu at the top of the document, a specific instrument or effect could be created, or one of the hardware devices can be selected. When an instrument is selected, press F4 and the onscreen piano keys will show up and the melodies can begin! Any instrument has many patches which can be browsed through using up and down arrows on the device, or through a small folder icon which will display all of the patches. These patches are pre-made sounds which are easy to use. To create an original sound, the instrument must be highlighted, and then under the edit menu 'initialize patch' must be selected. This turns the specific device into a black slate that can be adjusted using the various knobs and wheels of the instrument.

For synthesizers such as the Subtractor, Malstrom and Thor, an initialized patch can be completely reprogrammed to a unique sound (Thor has a button on the bottom which reads 'show programmer' which access its extensive machinery). However, for samplers such as the NNXT and NN19, and even the Redrum Drum Machine, samples can be used as sounds when the device is initialized using the folder-like icon. On the NNXT, once the remote editor is accessed (through a tiny arrow button on its bottom left corner), a second folder icon will appear and this is the one that will allow a sample to be played (the other one changes the patch, but when the patch is initialized all the pre-made samples are erased). It's complicated but this is how to created original sounds.

The Redrum drum computer is a particularly interesting machine which has ten notes, numerically labelled, which can each hold a sample. Although this machine can be played on the on-screen keys, it can also be sequenced on the 16 steps at the bottom of the device. Select one of the drum sounds and then select steps on the sequencer and the sound will automatically repeat to the selected tempo!

It's truly amazing.

Also, the number of steps can be changed, so to have a more complicated drum pattern the step count can be brought up to 32 from sixteen, and that higher range of steps can be accessed through a sliding switch directly above the steps called edit steps which has 1-64 sections in multiples of 16. Another cool thing about Redrum is that you can change the pace of the sequencer, making it double time or half time of the tempo, by adjusting the resolution, also right above the step sequencer. In addition to that, there are 4 banks labelled A,B,C and D, each with 8 patterns to them, allowing a total of 32 separate patterns to be stored on the same drum machine.

To copy the drum notes from the drum sequencer to the sequencer section, select the Redrum device and go to edit, and select Copy pattern to track. Once that is done, to prevent the drum machine from playing over the drum notes in the sequencer, disable the button above the 'run' button (which runs the sequencer) that reads 'enable pattern section'. Effect patches are directly under the devices in the create menu. These are pretty self-explanitory (distortion, reverb, compressor), however always make sure the desired device is selected before creating the effect patch for it!

Finale

To get the song off of Reason, place the left- and right-loop bumpers at the beginning and end of the song, go to the file menu, and click export loop! That's it!

Well, I hope I didn't unnecessarily complicate things, I just wanted to have a little

Better Farm

troubleshooting guide for the digital music making program I use so frequently. A lot of this stuff is easy to figure out on your own, and with a software as vast as reason experimentation is the best way to learn! But this guide is here for reference and... stuff like that! Happy playing!

Samples

Here are a few samples of the music I've created:

Comment

Nicole Caldwell

Nicole Caldwell is a self-taught environmentalist, green-living savant and sustainability educator with more than a decade of professional writing experience. She is also the co-founder of Better Farm and president of betterArts. Nicole’s work has been featured in Mother Earth News, Reader’s Digest, Time Out New York, and many other publications. Her first book, Better: The Everyday Art of Sustainable Living, is due out this July through New Society Publishers.