List of Tools:
- table saw (for ripping cap to 2 1/4”, you could use a 1×3 if you don’t have a table saw)
- miter saw (for cutting the lumber to length and the angles)
- utility knife (for shaving edges of pine boards)
- framing square
- tape measure
- sander block
- sand paper
- 4” foam brush
- old rag
- This gate was designed for a 35 1/4” opening. The width of the opening where the gate is needed will determine the width of the gate. Generally you want your gate to be 1/2” to 3/4” less wide than the door opening. This will allow it to swing freely and give room for hinges.
- I used pine boards with lots of character for a good rustic look. But you can use any material you like
- After all the pieces were cut the length, I used a utility knife to shave off the factory edge on all corners. By doing this it will give the wood a more hand carved look. After shaving off the edge use a sanding block to soften the edges from any slivers.
- All pine wood used is 3/4” thick.
- All dimensions are finished dimensions .
- All screws in this gate were drilled in through the back stiles. This made it look better on the side with the cross x to not show any screws.
- For additional support, wood glue can be applied in-between all the wood joints where screws are used.
- The angles listed on the cut list are for quick reference only and are approximate. You will need to make proper measurements to ensure the proper angles especially if your gate is not the exact same size.
List of Materials:
- (2) 1x6x96 pine boards (actual width is 5 1/2”)
- (6) 1x4x96 pine lumbers (actual width is 3 1/2”)
- (1 box) 1 1/4” drywall screws (I decided to use screws, because it pulled the two pieces together nice and tight.)
- Wood glue
- Wood stain of your choice (I used Minwax water based staina nd had it mixed to a gray color)
- Extra Heavy Gate Hinge
- Gate latch (the gate latch that I used requires a hole drilled in the door frame.)
- Handel (pull)
- (1) Cap - 35” x 2 1/4” x 3/4”
- (2) Short Cross Braces -~14 13/16” x 5 1/2” x 3/4”
- (1) Full Cross Brace – 33 5/8” x 5 1/2” x 3/4”
- (2) Front Stiles – ~24 3/16” x 5 1/2” x 3/4”
- (10) Back Stiles – 35” x 3 1/2” x 3/4”
- (2) Front Rails – 35” x 3 1/2” x 3/4”
Exploded Assembly View
2. Cut the front top rail to the same length on the miter saw.
3. Cut a back stile to length on the miter saw. Use a framing square to square up the corners. Drill in one screw on each corner to attach the back stile to the front rails. Before assembling any of the pieces, shave off the factory edge for a more rustic look.
5. Cut front stiles to length. Now that you know your exact spacing for the stiles between the front rails you can cut them to the right length. Now screw the stiles in place through the back stiles.6. Cut the full cross brace to length. The opening for the cross brace has now been determined and can now be measured. Place the board under the frame at an angle. Overlap the ends lightly to provide part of the board to be cut off. Take a pencil and mark where the frame crosses over the cross brace. Be sure the make the piece on the wood that will be discarded. The angles are listed below but it might be slightly different. That is why you should just trace the angle from the frame. Cut the length and shave of the edges. Sand and get ready for assembly.
7. Cut the short cross braces. Follow the same instructions as above, but this time mark along the full cross brace where the short cross braces will stop. Cut to length, shave off the corners and sand.
8. Cut (8 more) back stiles. Screw the stiles in place one at a time. As you screw in the back stiles make sure that you are on top of the front boards: the front stiles, rails and cross braces. This is so the screws hold the pieces in front.